Friday, May 27, 2005

Stop Pushing Your Self Propelled Snapper !!!!!

If you have trouble with the pulling system on a Snapper self propelled mower it is probably an easy fix for most shade tree mechanics. Set the mower where you can see the system good. Then look for these things.......

  • There are three springs involved with a self propelled Snapper. One lays down on the deck near the silver platter that the rubber tire runs on. It hooks on one end of the idler arm that the platter is mounted above. The other end hooks through the hole in the red handle bracket on the right side. There's a little access hole where you can reach with your needle nose pliers to hook it up. This one causes the lower belt (the one that goes around the pulley under the silver platter) to have constant tension. The next spring holds the rubber wheel down to the deck. This is the one most people loose and don't realize it. Sometimes the mower will still pull... on flat ground only when this one is gone. The last spring is the one that is at the bottom of the rod that moves when you hold the self propell handle down. It is partially covered by a vinyl cover to keep the weather off it a little. This spring is really "two springs in one". It has a smaller spring screwed up into the bottom of the upper larger spring. This provides you some adjustment to keep the belt tight when you hold the handle down. To adjust it... unhook the rod from it and twist it to the right. It should get shorter. The proper adjustment is when it is "a little" hard to hook the rod back by hand. You shouldn't be stretching the spring.
  • The rubber wheel must not be worn out. Don't let it get to the "metal on metal" state. It will beat up your silver platter. A scarred up one of those eats the little replacable rubber tires up at twice the normal rate. If yours is beat up already there is a "fix" for the damage it inflicts on the silver platter. You can either buy a new platter, called the drive disc, or a cover for it to give you a smooth surface again.
  • The rubber wheel's center bearing must not be worn out. This is probably the most common problem. If yours has a "snap ring" and some little screws at the bearing you will be able to replace the bearing. Older mowers had a non-replacable bearing and there are no snap rings or screws. When that one wears out you must buy the whole driven disc assembly. If your center bearing wears out you sometime have troubles with that hex shaft that runs through the center of it. It is supposed to be hexed all the way to the end where it is threaded.
  • The bearing at the right handle must be tight. This one wears out about half as often as the rubber wheel's center bearing. The end of the hex shaft mentioned above sticks through this bearing and a nut goes on the end of it. It also has a little cover with a rubber o-ring to cushion the bearing. To replace this one you only need to take the nut off the end of the hex shaft and then remove the two screws that hold on the cover.
  • The silver platter must not wobble. If it does the bearing is probably worn out. They are hard to replace unless you have "air drive" tools. Hard, but not impossible. Heres how to do it. The problem is that it tries to turn while you try to unscrew the nut. Well, if you will scrape away a little debris from the stem you will see a screwdriver slot cut in the end of the stem. You can put one there and hold the disc "still" so you can unscrew the nut. Its hard to hold so you might want a helper or a pipe wrench to hold the screwdriver, etc. Once you get it off look at the idler arm under it too. If the hole is egg shaped it would be a good time to replace it too.
  • The belts must be intact. Notice I said intact. If everything else is "right" your mower will pull fine with even a worn, stretched out belt.


At 8:24 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

This is exactly what I was looking for. You have know idea how hard it was to find this answer. Now I won't have to push my snapper up hill anymore. Thanks...

At 4:38 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Nice Job!
I was convinced the drive belt was too loose. But when I looked for a replacement, I found a new belt was the same length.
I never noticed I was missing the spring to hold the rubber wheel against the rotating plate.

At 10:08 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

I couldn't figure out if the drive disc has any adjustment on its underside. The platter is still smooth, but the thing wobbles like crazy now. I have a hunch that, even if, after removing it from the deck, I am able to hold the mounting shaft still with a slotted screw driver and back out the "bushing" that surrounds it, I'm going to find a worn out bearing. Oh well, I got nearly ten years out of this one. I'm counting my blessings. JCC

At 5:59 PM, Anonymous ron said...

My RE110 wont move. The engine runs fine. Lifting the wheels off the ground, they both turn, but in different directions. Help

At 11:22 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

How do I take off the cover that's on the deck to replace the control cable

At 12:56 PM, Blogger Unknown said...

The ideler pulley ...what is putting he correct position it should be in?? Should it be to the right of the belt or to the left of the belt or in the center between can figure it out help


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